Wednesday, 27 March 2013

5 months in - where is time going???


Cannot believe how quickly time has passed and I’m celebrating my 5 months arrival anniversary! I’m still glad to say I’m loving my time here in Calabar and have no regrets about leaving my London life. But I am really missing my family & friends more and more and the lack of internet has made skype impossible for a few days L

What I love most about Nigeria is still the people, I’m still amazed how the children near where I live get so much enjoyment from waving and shouting good morning at me every day, the smiles and “welcomes” I get from people, the kindness and generosity shown to me as a total stranger! I still find it funny for taxi drivers to compete about who gets to have the Oyibo in their taxi and the fact they all know where I need to be dropped off! And having famous footballers wanting to snap with me in a club also amused me no end!
The confidence of Nigerians also amazes me – I wish I had the ability to promote myself and have the self-belief that people here have. It’s ok to dance and sing in public, to chat to anyone, to do whatever you want to do. I admire that and wish I could develop that confidence and lower my inhibitions more.

I also love the music and the clothes of the people here in Calabar. I regularly enjoy myself clubbing and dancing to the wee small hours and am amassing a larger wardrobe full of vibrant and funky prints! There is always plenty to do and I have such a lovely group of friends here and am always meeting even more lovely people. I’d say that was the biggest advantage of being an Oyibo here – you are so noticeable that you stand out and people will come and start a conversation with you! As a reserved, uptight and shy British lady other people approaching me makes it so much easier for me, a smile is all the encouragement I need to give and that will pretty much always lead to a conversation and friendship.

What do I find challenging? At first I said the food and also the lack of power! I now find myself entirely used to the fact that there is not always power and find myself doing the “nepa” shout of joy and running to plug everything I own in to charge as soon as light comes on! The food - I’ve become used to not being able to have what I eat at home and am becoming more adventurous in my purchasing of food (I finally brought meat from the market myself!!!) and in what I’m cooking!Though I still have the occassional dream about food!
For me now the challenge is some of the cultural differences that I’m beginning to notice more as time passes – as relationships deepen and my role at work becomes more involved I’m rapidly still trying to learn how to behave at times, what to accept and challenge, and what works here and what doesn’t. It is tiring everyday thinking about how I behave and what I say and not totally ever being able to understand where someone is coming from or vice versa. One of the biggest advantages is also a disadvantage – being white does not give you the opportunity to easily blend in, it can be great for establishing new relationships but there are days and times where I wish I was less conspicuous and visible. On days where my “Britishness” is at its highest I find myself uncomfortable by the attention and embarrassed my lack of understanding about what to do / how to behave, and sometimes frustrated that my mind and experience doesn't fit. I’m beginning to find out it’s hard to live outside your comfort zone for a length of time and the differences sometimes show more the closer you become to people.

For those that know me well, compromise is not something I am particularly good at (at least I know this though....), and every day and every new relationship needs that compromise that I find tough. This is now my biggest challenge and I hope that I can grow and learn this art and maybe become a better person for it.

But despite the challenges the good always outweighs those difficulties and I find myself still starting and ending pretty much 99% of my days with a smile.

Friday, 22 March 2013

Cameroon part six – Sean’s departure and the return to Calabar!


Sadly Sean left us after Bali to head to Yaounde and onto Gabon. Leanne and I decided to head back to Limbe where we splashed out on a nicer hotel right on the coast! We relaxed and had an afternoon nap listening to the waves lapping against the shore! Sadly the swimming pool wasn’t working which was a big disappointment. We went to the Limbe wildlife Centre to report the chimps being held in captivity and met up with Chris, one of our friends working in Affi Mountain which was really nice! It was nice to have 2 days of relaxation before boarding the boat back to Nigeria!


The view from our hotel restaurant!



The trip back went pretty smoothly, the staff on the boat (Ashuka) are very professional and kind and definitely looked out for us. Met some people I travelled out of Nigeria with on the boat and caused great issues because I wasn’t sat in the VIP area this time! As it was a night ship I managed to fall asleep but woke up to find people taking pictures of Lea and I – was not happy and I shouted at them and threatened to take their cameras, that is one practice I really hate. I’m happy to pose for photos but I strongly dislike people just snapping (especially when I look a total state!!).

Luckily the nice lady from immigration was working so we had our passports stamped quickly as she remembered me! And we didn’t have to see SS either because he remembered me and was happy for me to be back in Nigeria! After Lea’s luggage was thoroughly searched we were finally free to go and avoided giving the “gifts” we were asked for by customs and immigration officers! I was warmly welcomed back to Nigeria by the lovely Nomzy and was happy to be back if very hot and sweaty!!

Monday, 18 March 2013

Bye Nan


Today is my Nan’s funeral, as the day slowly progresses towards 3pm I feel sadder and sadder. I needed some time alone and as I was staying at a mission house I decided to head to the church there, the pastor was very kind and gave me a little room all to myself so I could say my goodbyes to Nan.

As I was sat there I was going through all my memories of Nan – living next door to her, the terrible fringe she cut for me once, her love of bingo, hiding in the back of the car one time to surprise here when picking her up from bingo, pulling numbers out of a plastic pineapple for her pools lines, the lovely toast she made me, getting me watching home & away and neighbours, seeing old photos on the slide machine on rainy days, chocolate covered M&S marshmellows, doing the crossword puzzles in the sun newspaper, her not debating things with me as she said I always had an answer for anything, always being welcome in her house no matter what, her love of a good cup of tea and glass of wine on special occasions, and her stories from the war and being evacuated!

I feel so lucky to have had here in my life for 35 years – living next door and then later in the same courtyard meant I could come and go in her and Grandad’s lives as I wanted to. I remember all the times they looked after me in school holidays, and all the love and attention they gave to me. Hearing Nan was proud of me deciding to come to Nigeria was so lovely. I’m sad I wasn’t there in person to say goodbye but I know Nan would not have minded at all as long as I don’t forget about her! I will wear her ring with pride and will treasure the photo of Nan and Grandad on their wedding day which I always loved and remember seeing on the bureau table in their houses.

Goodbye Nan, I love you so much and will miss you. Keep an eye on me, keep me safe and give me a nudge in the right direction every now and again!! Be happy with Grandad and I hope what I do continues to make you feel proud of me xxxx

Sunday, 17 March 2013

Cameroon part five – The fons and their palace’s


Sean, Lea and I departed Belo the next day and travelled together back to Bamenda where we checked into the great mission house – about £7 a night for a room including very nice and comfy beds, sheets, towels, hot water, electricity and wifi! It was an absolute luxury for me – felt as good as the Hilton!! It’s amazing how quickly your expectations shift! After an awesome breakfast of omelette and fresh bread (one plus of the French colonisation!) we went to explore the Fondoms of the area!

NW Cameroon is known for its rich history and traditions. It was made famous by tribal wars and colonial wars with the Germans. The province has many Fondoms – kingdoms run by a ruler called a Fon. The Fons were independent rulers, but then came under German rule then French or English rule after world war one. Now the Fons are under the jurisdiction of the Cameroon Government, but remain semi-autonomous and they run their Fondoms. The Fon is the spiritual, judge and head of his people.

Polygamy and wife inheritance are practiced by Fons, so they have very large families! When a Fon does (or ‘goes missing’ as they say) one of the Fon’s sons will become the next leader – with the exception of the first born son (it is seen as bad luck), any of the son’s can be chosen to be the next Fon. The Palace is where the Fon and his families live and they have their own courts and secret societies and practices.

Only other Fon’s or senior leaders can touch a Fon. Fon’s rule is to look after his people and he will have schools and often hospitals to look after those in his Fondom.

Bali Palace is an example of a more modern palace, the Fon’s family live away from the palace and it is mainly used for ceremonies, greeting guests and for court and meetings. The intricate carvings and luxurious items show the Fon’s power.

The Bafut Fon is generally seen to be the most powerful Fon in the area and the Palace is still habited by the Fon’s wives. It is an old Palace and UNESCO have helped preserve it given its history.  The Atsum (spiritual house) was particularly spectacular and made from wood and raffia – only the Fon, some of his special wives and the secret society can enter it! Our tour was conducted by one of the Fon’s sons which made it even more interesting to hear the history and what it was like to live in a Fondom! 

Bafut Palace:










The drum to communicate across the fondom



Bali Palace








Anyone spot Side Show Bob???