Cameroon part one – the journey!

Re-entry visa for Nigeria – check

Received passport with re-entry visa – check

Get (very expensive) visa to Cameroon – check

Packed bags for Cameroon - check

Buy ticket for the Fakoship ferry to sail to Limbe – ferry not operating…….

No fakoship ferry = no travel to Cameroon. The ferry was not running due to “administration difficulties” – this actually means “the captain of the ship was beaten and kidnapped by pirates and held for a 20million Naira ransom, and the passengers of the ferry were robbed……”

How do I get to Cameroon and do I even want to travel by boat given this and the escalating pirates situation in Nigerian waters????

Eventually I decided to take a passenger and cargo ferry to Tiko, which is close to Limbe, apparently they pay the pirates so they are the ‘safest’ way to travel! Finally purchased a ticket, had a 45 minute interrogation with SS about why I am in Nigeria and why I want to go to Cameroon, battled with immigration regarding the fact that my original visa has expired and how I had managed to get a re-entry visa (5 months in and still not had my visa properly extended), and finally boarded the ship! It was a pleasant surprise – the VIP area was air conditioned, we got food and wine and it was a pretty good transport experience except for the pirates….

Yes my ship was boarded by pirates!!! We’d been sailing for about 30 minutes when a boat carrying the ‘junior pirates’ came up to the ship and they boarded. Negotiations occurred about the price and then they left the ship and escorted us to Cameroon waters – this is to prevent any other group of pirates also boarding us and taking more money! Then as we approach Cameroon the ‘big pirates’ board and collect the money! Thankfully no one came to the passenger area so we were all safe if a little stressed! My fellow passengers at first felt safer by my presence – a white person on board and I’m bound to pay the pirates a lot of money… then they found out I was a volunteer and perhaps “bad markeeet” (an unfavourable transaction) and I was going to cause them wahala (problems!). It made everyone laugh, although I wasn’t entirely sure whether people were laughing with me or the fact I may get kidnapped…..

Finally arrived in Tiko late on Saturday evening, was helped by a lovely Nigerian guy who negotiated a taxi to take me to my hotel in Limbe as it was dark and no-one else was going my way! Climbed into my bed exhausted but happy to have light and be able to sleep with a fan – Cameroon has a good power supply!!!